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By Casey McCreary (She/Her) & Thank You To BVLA | 6 days ago

Black Rhodium, also called Black Gold, is a fun way to create a romantic, spooky curation.Whether you are looking for an all-black curation or are looking to mix metal tones, rhodium is an amazing addition.With Halloween coming up, we wanted to talk about this mysterious metal–its history, how it’s made, and how to style it–so that you can start dreaming about your new spooky setup.


History

Rhodium itself was first discovered in 1803 by British chemist William Hyde Wollaston. It would take more than a century for rhodium to be used to plate metals, however, with commercial availability starting in the 1930s. This plating was used to both improve the resistance of the jewelry against tarnishing as well as add a more lustrous, white finish to white gold, platinum, and sterling silver. Even today, most white gold jewelry is made using a rhodium electroplating finish due to its increased luster (Royce-Greensill 2025).


It wasn’t until 1982 that black rhodium appeared on the scene. Japanese inventor Masayoshi Mashiko with their team at Nippon Metal Plating Co. Ltd. saw a need for an improved method of creating black jewelry. To quote the inventor themselves: “known manners for black plating or black coloring such as black chrome plating, black nickel plating, blackening with copper carbonate all encounter difficulties in obtaining gloss, some of them yielding clouding” (Mashiko and Suzuki, 1982).


Black rhodium plating was later popularized by famous jeweler Joel Arthur Rosenthal (often referred to by his initials, JAR). Known for his inventive and unique pieces, JAR leapt at the opportunity to use a unique process with his jewelry and “sparked the renaissance of purposefully blackened diamond jewelry” (Royce-Greensill 2025). Black rhodium has since waxed and waned in popularity, depending on the fashion of the time, but seems to be rising in popularity once again.


While the history of black rhodium in the piercing industry is not written down in any official capacity, it is nearly certain that BVLA is the innovator behind bringing this method to piercing jewelry. Nick Martin, the founder and owner of BVLA, remembers seeing black rhodium at various jewelry tradeshows somewhere around the mid-to-late 2000’s. After developing and perfecting the process for manufacturing at BVLA, the first pieces of body jewelry were likely produced somewhere between 2008 and 2010.


What Is Rhodium?

As a platinum-group metal, rhodium is one of the rarest metals on earth, about four times less common than gold (“Abundance of Elements in the Earth's Crust and in the Sea” 2021, 14-21). That is only part of the reason that black rhodium comes with a slightly higher price tag, however. Rhodium, unlike gold, is rarely found in large deposits. Instead, it is mostly found in small amounts mixed among other ores and minerals in the Ural mountains and in North and South America (Hammond and Lide 2021, 4-28). This makes processing rhodium for manufacturing a more tedious process than many other metals.


While rhodium’s natural white luster and durability has made it a popular choice for improving white gold and silver, it is not malleable enough to reliably be crafted into jewelry on its own (Thompson 2025). This is, ultimately, a great thing for the consumer. Since rhodium is considered one of the most valuable metals in the world and rhodium plating is generally only about 0.75 - 1.0 microns (or .0003 inches) thick, this means that your black and white golds with a rhodium finish are much more affordable than a pure rhodium piece would be (WC Editorial Team 2023).

How It’s Made

So how does a metal known for its pure white luster become, instead, such a moody black tone? Well, the exact details are a bit of a trade secret, with each company using a proprietary formula in the electroplating process. Much of the process, however, is universal.


First, the piece needs to be polished extremely well, often through multiple rounds of polishing, rinsing, and cleaning. Any imperfections can affect the final product, or even ruin it, so the importance of this step cannot be overstated.  


After cleaning, the jewelry is plated using one of two methods. The first involves placing the jewelry in a bath with rhodium particles, electrolytes, and a proprietary mixture of additives, which is what creates the black tone of the jewelry. Next, an electrical current is run through this bath and the jewelry is continuously moved through the rhodium-electrolyte solution. This causes the rhodium in the positively-charged electrolyte solution to attach to the negatively-charged cathode (the gold). If a piece will only be partially covered in rhodium as a way to highlight certain areas, this process is instead most commonly done with a method called pen plating, which allows for precise placements by essentially painting onto the rhodium solution. In either case, the rhodium bonds to the surface of the gold, creating a durable shell, and the piece is once again thoroughly cleaned.


Different proprietary methods rely on a few main variables to determine the outcome of the piece of jewelry: The composition and the temperature of the electrolytic solution determine the tone and effectiveness of the bond. The specific voltage and how long the jewelry is left in the bath also affect the outcome of the electroplating process (Sharretts 2022). This is why rhodium plating may look different from various manufacturers.


The end result is gold coated in a layer of rhodium that, despite its original bright luster, now “absorbs light instead of reflecting it, creating that signature intense, flat black finish.” With so many factors having to be accounted for to make the perfect piece of jewelry, black rhodium is truly “where high science meets high fashion” (Thompson 2025).


But Why Rhodium?

There are so many reasons to wear rhodium over other forms of blackened jewelry! For both safety and practical reasons, rhodium is one of the best possible methods of wearing jewelry with a darker tone. In this section, we’ll cover what makes rhodium safe and truly worth the cost.


Rhodium itself is hypoallergenic, meaning that it is free of common allergens like nickel, copper, or cobalt. When placed over gold, the entire piece is as safe as it gets. Rhodium is also “exceptionally hard,” meaning that it is more scratch-resistant and durable than gold. In fact, that is one of the reasons white gold is typically plated in non-darkened rhodium–it improves the longevity of the piece by greatly reducing the risk of tarnishing and scratching (Hammond and Lide 2021, 4-28).


Compared to other black coatings, which typically flake off and use common allergens, rhodium is a clear winner. There is, however, one other contender for the throne when it comes to blackened jewelry: niobium. While niobium is extremely safe and great for piercings both healing and healed, it is notoriously difficult to work with and does not lend itself to the microplating process. Because of this, there is a limited range of jewelry options in niobium, meaning you won’t get complex designs, but instead you will largely find rings and beads (which we always have in stock). Gold, the base metal behind black rhodium, is famously easy to work with, meaning that you can make nearly any design you wish black. In fact, if you see a piece on BVLA’s website and want it in any of their gold tones–yellow, white, rose, or black–we can special order that for you easily.


Styling

There are so many options for styling a piece of black jewelry. You can have an all black set-up, which is especially fitting for a goth or witchy vibe. The dark tone of the metal will also make certain gemstones pop in comparison to lighter metal tones, making it great for highlighting certain settings. Jessica McCormack, a high-end jewelry designer in New York, loves the “moody and romantic” tone that black rhodium provides, and states that “setting a diamond in blackened gold completely transforms the mood of a piece — it gives it an antique-y feel which is hard to achieve when it is newly made” (qtd. in Royce-Greensill 2025).


For another way to use black rhodium in your piercings, mixed metal curations are currently high fashion and black rhodium really excels with this style. Black rhodium works well with all of the other gold tones, as well as steel and titanium. It truly mixes in perfectly with any curation. For a fun twist on the mixed metal theme, pieces can be made with both rhodium and any other gold tones together, the gold and rhodium accenting one another to make your piece really stand out.


Rhodium tends to be the most durable in defined areas of the jewelry, especially in inset areas. One of the most common uses for rhodium early on in the industry was to set it behind diamonds and other gemstones to make them pop. This continues to be one of the most popular ways to use rhodium plating, as it makes some designs truly stand out. This is especially striking in spooky pieces, where we can darken the eyes of a skull or the ridges of a scarab.

Maintenance

Rhodium is a very durable material indeed and is famous for adding tarnish and scratch resistance to the metals it plates. That being said, however, it is not impervious to harm. Over time, the rhodium may take on a more antiqued finish instead of straight black, with the prominent ridges of the piece showing the gold underneath and the rhodium staying nice and safe in the recesses. There are things that you can do to minimize wear over time, or even to renew a well-worn piece.


Keeping chemicals away from your jewelry can help reduce the antiquing effect of the jewelry. Robinson’s Jewelers recommends avoiding “perfume, hairspray, lotions, cleaning products, and even the chlorine in your pool.” For cleaning, they recommend going the most gentle route possible: “use a soft, lint-free cloth lightly dampened with warm water and a tiny drop of mild dish soap. Gently pat and wipe dry immediately. No rubbing!” (Thompson 2025).


Worst case scenario, if your piece does start to show more wear than you are hoping for, you can get the piece re-plated in rhodium, which involves the jeweler very carefully refreshing the rhodium plating on your jewelry and giving it a new lease on life! Luckily, very few clients find the need to send their pieces off for re-plating, as wear to the rhodium tends to give the jewelry a stunning and unique finish.


To Sum Up…

Black rhodium is a fun, safe addition to any piercing curation. Whether you’re going for a spooky, moody set up in all dark tones or a mixed-metal vibe, rhodium is an exciting metal to play with. If you’d like to see what black rhodium looks like in person, feel free to pop by any of our studios and we can show you our existing pieces! If you don’t see exactly what you’re looking for, our talented team of piercers and jewelry specialists will be more than happy to put together a special order for you so that you can get the bespoke, curated look of your dreams. 


Every body deserves to be adorned.


References

“Abundance of Elements in the Earth's Crust and in the Sea.” 2021. In CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics, edited by John R. Rumble, 14-21. 102nd ed. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.


Hammond, C. R., and David R. Lide. 2021. “The Elements.” In CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics, edited by John R. Rumble, 4-1-4-39. 102nd ed. Boca Raton, FL: Taylor & Francis Group.


Royce-Greensill, Sarah. 2025. “The Edgy Look of Black Rhodium.” The New York Times, August 27, 2025. https://www.nytimes.com/2025/08/27/fashion/jewelry-black-rhodium.html.


Sharretts, Stephen. 2022. “What is Electroplating?” Sharretts Plating Company. https://www.sharrettsplating.com/blog/what-electroplating/.


Thompson, Maya. 2025. “The Science of Black Rhodium Plating and Its Maintenance: The Moody, Mysterious Metal That's Taking Over Your Jewelry Box.” Robinson's Jewelers. https://robinsonsjewelers.com/blogs/news/the-science-of-black-rhodium-plating-and-its-maintenance-the-moody-mysterious-metal-thats-taking-over-your-jewelry-box?srsltid=AfmBOopGPCXJbZysfqvVtiGEnRcjRv8uslhvYqXA0-bbPpFcaGJlxXgC.


WC Editorial Team. 2023. “Guide to Rhodium Plating.” With Clarity. https://www.withclarity.com/blogs/metal/guide-to-rhodium-plating?srsltid=AfmBOoqeNSqSXaEr6x0-BJA5uAAlUV-oiCfvzcTJm9kIhY8xDMxhNm3d.

By Casey McCreary (She/Her) & Thank You To BVLA

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